The creativity of the Mexican people is remarkable. Perhaps it’s the beauty of their surroundings or the generally temperate weather that inspires so many painters, sculptors, musicians and fabric artists. But like all other creative endeavours, change is a constant.
Just down the street from the first hotel I stayed at, La Nueva Posada, there used to be an open-front shop where two weavers operate manual looms to produce colourful tablecloths and napkins, shawls and other beautiful textile goods created from natural threads. The click-clack of the looms sounded like horses’ hoofs.
The storefront was closed last year but a few weeks ago, while I was out for a ramble, I located them again, situated closer to the malecon, in a prime tourist area. I hope that represents progress and hopefully more sales for them. I have my eye on a cobalt blue table runner. Next time I visit, though, I’ll try it on as a shawl. Perhaps they can make me a custom item if repurposing the runner as a shawl doesn’t work.
In the garden of La Nueva Posada, an older man sits every day under an umbrella, behind his table of articles for sale. What catches your eyes first are the embroidered shawls waving in the gentle breeze off Lake Chapala. Whether the embellishment is machine-or hand-sewn, the designs are exquisite.
Up close, you notice that those detailed masks he’s created are painted not with oils or acrylic, but with minuscule beads set into a heavy wax base. I’ve made beaded jewellery, and let me tell you, working with those tiny globes of glass can be frustrating.
It’s very painstaking work to pick and place every single bead. He doesn’t have any visible pattern drawn on the object he’s covering – just the basic shape. Snakes, lizards, death masks or skulls are very popular in Mexican culture. You’ll see depictions of skeletons posed in exuberant clothing.
Instead of ugly graffiti, many walls have been covered with pottery or tiles, often with pastoral scenes. This wall of skulls – with names underneath each one – is installed on a wall opposite the Catholic cathedral.
The wall commemorates those who have passed. The Day of the Dead ceremonies here are important cultural events.
I bought some earrings in as little store on one of the side streets. Ran into a family from Montreal who joined their son from Singapore in Ajijic for a get-together. Even the box my inexpensive jewellery was in was decorated with 3-D paper flowers.
How can you not feel happy when surrounded by so much artistry?
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